Did you know that even the careful use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides may cause illness in some people or their pets? By using organic methods of landscaping, you can reduce the health risk to you and your loved ones, save money and contribute to the well being of your local ecosystem/environment.

Organic gardening protects all of us

Here are five organic techniques you can use on your lawn and in your garden.

1. Wherever possible, use native plants or plants from similar environmental conditions, to make organic gardening easier.  Natives frequently require less water, fertilizer, and care than non-native, exotic plants. Click herefor more benefits while gardening with natives.
   

   California native front yard garden

2. To keep your lawn healthy and resistant to weeds, use organic methods to care for the soil and the grass. Organic fertilizers, compost materials, and worm castings may be more expensive to purchase than chemical fertilizers, but they do not need to be applied to lawns as frequently, making the actual costs even out over the long term. Using the appropriate amount of water by staggering your watering intervals, will also keep your lawn healthy and stimulate long root growth.
3. Use aeration, a technique of punching small holes in the lawn, to allow air, water and nutrients to reach more deeply into the lawn’s root system. Not only will your lawn be more beautiful, a healthy lawn will be weed and pest free. You can also use a 50:50 mix of sand and organic compost spread in a thin layer over your lawn as top dressing to strengthen your lawn.
4. Collect leaves, pine needles and weed-free plant clippings to create compost that you can use on your lawn and your other plantings. Leaves have an appropriate name because it’s ok to actually ‘leave’ them where they land in your yard.  For example, oak leaves make excellent mulch around the base.
   

   Fallen leaves look natural in this lawn-free front yard

5. Hire a landscape maintenance company who also practices organic methods. Again, the initial expense may be higher than your typical mow-blow-and-go type service, but it’s not worth it to have you or your garden’s health compromised.

Practicing organic gardening techniques can save you money, reduce your exposure to harmful chemicals, and improve the planet.

Clients John and Nancy, a retired couple in Mountain View, enjoy traveling, spending time with their family and growing their own vegetables. They came to me with a request that many people have these days, “Design us a private sanctuary that is fun and safe for my grandchildren and the dog, but also make it easy to maintain.”

No problem! We began with a site analysis of their corner lot property noting the strengths and challenges of each area. Since they had a full sun side yard, it was obvious where the new edible garden would reside. We said goodbye to the circa 1970’s pittosporum hedges and designed multiple raised planter beds, wire trellises for grape vines and a cut flower area. A single post arbor frames the guest bedroom window while still allowing in sunlight and begins the wire trellis vine support.

The backyard had an existing pool, hot tub and nice shade canopy that made growing a traditional lawn impossible. By extending the fence line out towards the veggie area, we reclaimed some much needed space for a covered sand pit for the grandchildren to play in and a larger turf area for their elderly golden retriever to nap on. We reworked the circulation pathways and got rid of the tripping hazards from the mossy flagstone and the awkward entry to the hot tub.

With our motto of more fun with less work, we made two major decisions. Keep most of the shade canopy intact and install realistic (artificial) turf that will save the homeowners time and money from mowing, fertilizing and dog urine burn spots.

Additional seating was added to allow them different points to relax in the garden. Probably the most relaxing and most requested place to sit in the garden is in the “air chair” swing! Another relaxing place is under the single post arbor flanked by ceramic glazed pots which gives a great view of the new water feature.

With the fun of the vegetables, cut flowers, sand pit, and swing with the relaxing elements of the water feature, no-mow lawn and hot tub, what’s not to love?

Landscape construction provided by SouthBay Landscaping.

Click here for the before images and to see their landscape design plan.

When it comes time to remove or reduce your lawn there are three standard methods to choose from. First you could remove the lawn manually with a sod cutter or sharp shovel. As you’ll notice I said the word ‘manually’ because it is just that- hard manual labor. Unless you are hiring a professional, the sod cutters for rent aren’t always that sharp and you need to have a lot of strength and push very hard to get results.

The second method, I don’t even like to mention, but unfortunately some landscape professions are still using a chemical kill. This means that they use toxic chemicals that are so strong, they not only kill your lawn but all the good organisms and healthy mycorrhiza that live in the soil. In short, don’t do it. It’s not worth your sacrificing the health your family and pets, yourself or your soil.

So that is why I started using the third method called sheet mulching or lasagna composting. Not only is it all organic but many of the ingredients can be obtained for little or no money. I also like this method because I am lazy. In other words, I can do this process once and it’s done and I don’t even have to break a real sweat!

With in one day with two people, we sheet mulched all 850 square feet of our front yard. As a homeowner, here are the steps I suggest you take:

1. Rebate. Before you do anything to your alive, green lawn, check with your local municipal water department to see if you may qualify for a lawn removal rebate.
2. Gather materials. You’ll need 3 basic items: manure or compost, cardboard and mulch. Click here to read more about where to find these materials.
3. Prepare the site.
   1. Mow the lawn on the closest setting possible.
   2. Take a sharp shovel or pick  and edge around any hardscape that the lawn comes into contact with. You can use this extra sod to make a berm (a raised area of earth).
   3. Remove any items that may get in the way like lights, drip irrigation tubing and rocks. Save any reusable items for later use
   4. Compost you lawn
      1. Lay out about 1-2 inches of compost or manure on top of lawn and water it in well
      2. Add a layer of cardboard and overlap  each box about 25-50%. Designer tips: have the brown side up since it camouflages best with the wood mulch
      3. Add water again until the cardboard is soggy
      4. Add 2-3 inches of wood mulch
      5. Finished!
         1. Just remember to keep your new ‘compost area’ watered well. It should have the consistency of a damp sponge.
         2. In 3-6 months your lawn will be composted into the most gorgeous, friable, earth worm infested soil.
         3. Plant your new garden and enjoy.

Sheet mulching (or Lasagna Composting) is an effective way to not only get rid of pesky weeds (or unused lawns) but it also a great way to build organic matter up in your soil. I like to think about it as the lazy person’s answer to better soil, healthier plants and a weed-free garden all done in one task. If that does sound good enough to make you a believer, what if I told you that you could get most of the materials needed for sheet mulching for free or for very little money?

1. Manure/Compost.
   1. Depending on how adventurous you are feeling, you can get manure for free (stable manure from a horse ranch is great). Call your local feed store for free manure ideas or ads on Craigslist/Freecycle.
   2. You can also save time by purchasing steer, chicken or other manure in bags or bulk (preferred) from your garden center.
   3. Cardboard
      1. For free cardboard try places that sell appliances like refrigerators and ask if you can have any leftover boxes.
      2. Place an ad on Craigslist/Freecycle.
      3. Ask local retail stores in your neighborhood if they would save boxes for you for one week- most people are happy to help since they usually get recycled anyways.
      4. You can also save time by purchasing cardboard in rolls from a packing company. Do a Google search ‘corrugated roll’.
      5. Water
         1. I know it sounds counter intuitive to use water when you are removing a lawn in order to save water but this is a step you can’t skip. Think of keeping your lawn at a moisture level similar to wrung out wet sponge.
         2. Mulch.
            1. This is the top dressing that you get to look at for a couple of months while your weeds or lawn are decomposing, so if you care, choose wisely. I like to call local tree trimming companies and ask if they can delivery free ‘arbor mulch’ directly to my driveway. The only down-side to this free method is that you don’t have a lot of quality control over what tree parts you get (expect a lot of green leaves with the brown wood). You can ask your arborist to avoid delivering mulch from Eucalyptus, Walnut or other allopathic trees that will inhibit future plant growth.
            2. Again the only way to guarantee your results is to purchase mulch at local garden materials site like Lyngso.

The hardest part of this process is gathering up all the materials. But once you have everything at the ready, you can sheet mulch your lawn in one day with a little help from family or friends.

The increasing number of dog owners who wish to have gardens that suit dogs as well as humans, accounts for a new movement called Petscaping.

To have a successful dog-friendly space that you will enjoy, too, consider your dog’s behavior along with your personal needs and garden desires. Does your dog act out the callings of his breed by being a herder, hunter, patroller, digger, retriever or lounger? Observe these important characteristics over several days, even weeks.  Dogs are creatures of habit and prefer to patrol the same paths, enjoy the same sunny spots and deposit their waste in nearly the same areas each day.

When designing your yard for the herding or patrolling dogs, pay attention to the paths and plantings around the fence line since well-traveled paths will show wear if left bare. Instead, mulch heavily along their paths and plant shrubs and trees several feet away from fences keeping them pruned up from the ground to allow him damage-free access.  To the spaces under the shrubs, create a natural lounging spot by adding a thick layer of soft wood-chip mulch. Avoid cocoa and coir/coconut husk mulch which can be toxic or harmful if ingested.

Digging can be the most destructive behavior, especially to young plants; fortunately you have choices to consider. Some dogs dig to cool down, others to make escape tunnels. Many dig simply because they’re bored. Give her a digging pit to encourage her habit and relieve her boredom. Train her to dig only in her dedicated area by planting dog goodies like a Kong toy stuffed with pungent treats. Burry treats at incremental levels for her to uncover and be sure to repeat often.  Another idea that is fun for pets and their companions is to attend a doggie training or agility class. These types of programs keep your dog mentally focused and engaged in positive behaviors which you can encourage at home, helping to curb less than ideal habits.

In areas that you want to discourage and conceal digging, plant a fast growing vine that can be trained as a groundcover, like Star Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. But if you have an “escape artist” digger, you may wish to install a low concrete barrier under your fences. As an additional precaution, especially if you live on a busy street, consider a double entry system with auto-closers at the outer gate. In case one gate is left open, the other acts as a fail-safe. The enclosed area can double as a utility area, dog bathing station or even a temporary dog run. Once you have your dog’s habits noted on your landscape base plan, you can begin to plug in their basic needs. Always consider safety, sufficient shade, dry shelter, clean drinking water, adequate fencing, and a good potty and exercise area.

Safety is key to any people or pet space. Prudent plant choices in your landscape mean avoiding thorny, spiny, sappy and toxic plants. Small dog breeds and puppies are especially sensitive to toxins because of their limited body size. For an extensive list of toxic plants visit the ASPCA’s website at www.aspca.org

Many people think a large lawn ensures dog exercise space. While most dogs enjoy a good run at the park, that is no reason for you to turn your backyard into one. As a water-wise alternative to traditional turf, consider a soft hardscape like decomposed granite or smooth gravel. Pea gravel with ample base rock underneath also makes for a great potty area. If you still crave the greenery of grass, consider a no-mow lawn that can be created with bunch grass like California Meadow Sedge, Carex pansa, which stands up to heavy paw traffic. Regardless of your choice, never use synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. If you do use an organic method, rinse down the area immediately after application to allow soak-in time, before the pet uses the area.

Lastly, consider what special requirements may develop as your dog ages. If your dog’s breed is susceptible to hip dysplasia, think about the future need for smooth, level walking surfaces and wide corners for dog wheelchairs.

Now that you have considered your pet’s needs, what are you looking for in a garden? Will you entertain, grow edibles, read, or play ball with children? In other words, make another list of all the desired human activities.

There’s always a way to marry the needs of humans and dogs. For example, if you want to grow edibles, think about a raised planter bed that will be out of sight and at a height away from leg lifters and dogs that mark.  Petscaping is all about coexistence instead of forfeiting an attractive garden. When in doubt, hire a professional landscape designer. We can help creatively find solutions to balance everyone’s needs.

Julie Orr is a member of Association of Professional Landscape Designers, specializing in pet-friendly, water-wise, low maintenance gardens. Julie grew up with a petscape full of dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, chickens and a tortoise. www.julieorrdesign.com

A garden can be a safe, comfortable and fun space for pets as well as an attractive environment for people. When working with a landscape professional, ask them to design and care for your garden with your pet in mind. Do you have an escape artist dog, a rambunctious cat or an elderly animal peacefully living out their golden years? Here are some things you should consider.The most basic needs for outdoor pets are adequate fencing, shelter from the elements, clean fresh water, enough space to move about, and a place to ‘do their business.’ A yard with a good balance of sun and shade, trees, shrubs, paths and paved spaces, will be comfortable for both you and your pet, so plan with those elements in mind.

Petscaping for Dogs

Garden designed by Julie Orr Design

Many dogs have strong protector instincts, and want to patrol the perimeter of your yard. Planting shrubs and trees several feet away from fences and keeping them pruned up from the ground will allow him damage-free access. The spaces under the shrubs will also make natural lounging spots. A thick layer of soft wood-chip mulch will create a natural bed. You may choose a distant corner as a place to go when it’s ‘business time.’

If your pooch is a digger who longs for freedom, you may wish to install a low concrete barrier under your fences. As an additional precaution, especially if you live on a busy street, consider a double entry system with auto-closers at the outer gate. In case one gate is left open, the other acts as a fail-safe. The enclosed area can be a utility area, dog bathing station or even a temporary kennel as necessary. If your utilities can be located in this dog-free zone, your meter-reader will thank you.

If you have very big or rambunctious dog and wish to protect your new landscape, it is good to have a dedicated dog area. Side yards make natural dog runs, but for a happier pooch, consider extending it out into the living area so the dog can still be part of the family. There should be shade, a faucet & hose to keep water bowls fresh, and a foot-friendly clean surface such as cedar mulch (repels fleas too) or pea gravel installed with drain rock underneath for easy cleanups and spray downs. If you don’t choose to have a dog run, you may want to consider temporary wire cages around any susceptible plants until they are settled in.

Petscaping for Cats

For cats consider the same basic elements on a somewhat smaller scale. Their habits are different from their doggie counterparts. Whereas dogs prefer to be a part of the action most of the time, cats are content to be on their own for hours and will let you know when they are in need of your company. Low shrubs and grasses that they can lounge under are perfect. Another cat favorite is to roll in dry, warm areas like pavers, flagstone, or even better, gravel or gold fines. Always protect your kitty from dangers of the road, cat fights and other animals. Use a cat enclosure in the garden or simply keep your cat indoors- my cat has live happily for 17 years indoors.

If your cat’s middle name isn’t bird killer, a pondless ceramic fountain can provide hours of entertainment with visiting insects and birds while also supplying fresh, moving water to your feline. Be sure to always add fresh water either manually or via your irrigation system and never add chlorine.

Although none of us want to think about our pet getting old, it’s good to remember that aging pets may develop special needs. My vet once told me that pets age like humans do. We both start to lose muscle mass, skin starts to sag, and joints begin to hurt. As pets get older, they also tend to become less mobile. Consider the future possibility of needing smooth walking surfaces and wide corners for dog-karts (wheelchairs) and ramps or steps for cats that can no longer leap to their destinations.

The largest request I get from clients is to create a safe, non-toxic environment for their family, their pets and their guests. Since your pets feet aren’t protected with shoes while in the garden (and they lick their feet), specify plants that need little to no fertilizer or pesticide. If you must use, try an organic fertilizer and spray irrigate immediately after application to dissolve completely. For pesky weeds, remove manually and try to prevent them from seeding in the first place with non-toxic weed abatement made from corn meal or a natural smothering method called sheet mulching.

Consider pet-friendly plants in your landscape by avoiding thorny, spiny, sappy and toxic plants that can be harmful to your pet. For an extensive list of toxic plants for dogs and cats visit: http://aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/. Besides rhododendrons, other common plants that can be toxic, and even deadly to pets are: azaleas, cycad palms, oleander, foxglove, lily of the valley and castor bean. Many pets investigate by tasting, so never assume that your pet won’t eat a new plant introduced to the landscape or home. If your pet has eaten a plant that may be toxic, don’t waste time trying to induce vomiting, call a veterinary immediately.

Hardy and useful plants for dogs and cats include bunch grasses and sedges. A cat favorite is Carex divulsa, Berkeley Sedge, a perfect grass to hide behind, sleep on top of and to pounce on.

I have removed and reduced many-a-lawn now for clients that are ready to embrace a water-wise garden.

But with so many questions about what to do with lawns, I was glad to find one person to sum it up so nicely.

I recently had the privilege of hearing Sherri Osaka, of Sustainable Landscape Designs, speak on the benefits of Greywater systems. Sherri Osaka has degrees in landscape architecture and engineering, which make her uniquely suited to design and teach sustainable systems.

Ms. Osaka is a life-long organic gardener and a member of the American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA); the Sierra Club; the California Native Plant Society; and Architects, Designers, and Planners for Social Responsibility (ADPSR). Here’s what Sherri had to share about sustainable lawn tips:

I was walking early one morning watching all my neighbor’s sprinkler systems running on their lawns—some of it going into the stormdrains which troubles me. I am a confirmed native plant advocate, but not opposed to lawn in certain circumstances. So here are my dos and don’ts for lawns:

Dos

· Do plant lawn for a play surface. It’s the best play surface you can buy–great for kids, games, sitting on, picnics, walking on, etc.

· Do plant the minimum size that you’ll need and no larger.

· Do select either the front or back yard, whichever is sunniest, and have ONE lawn in the yard for play, that’s it. Very few households need more than one lawn

· Do select a drought-tolerant grass, such as a dwarf fescue and don’t be afraid to over seed with clover which will fix nitrogen from the air

· Do irrigate with subsurface drip irrigation – it is almost twice as efficient as spray irrigation

· Do use a reel mower or electric mower, instead of a gas powered one.

· Do grass cycle – this adds up to one pound of nitrogen per year, allowing you to reduce the amount of fertilizer you add (usually about four pounds of fertilizer a year)

· Do add corn meal gluten as a natural pre-emergent in the early spring to prevent crab grass and to add even more nitrogen.

Don’ts

· Don’t plant lawn in parking strips –it’s just too darn hard to irrigate without run off unless you’re doing subsurface irrigation. And then again, who wants to play a game in a parking strip. Just don’t do it!

· Don’t plan lawn just to look at it. If you are not going to play on it, there are many other alternatives that can provide a low, green area at far less maintenance cost.

· Don’t plant lawn under trees

o Lawn never does really well in the shade of a tree

o Since you are irrigating the lawn shallowly, the tree roots stay at the surface and they become hard to mow around

o As the tree roots get bigger, they impinge on the irrigation lines, cracking them, shifting the spray heads, making it hard to irrigate.

· Don’t plant lawn right next to paved surfaces where overspray can become runoff. Instead surround it with other plantings that will absorb this water.

• • Don’t use petroleum-based, chemical fertilizers, only organic fertilizers. See “The Organic Lawn Care Manual” by Paul Tukey for more info.